by Alex Fury .

Les Smokings - Hayward: A look inside

Photograph: Zoe Hitchen

Layers of interlining and interfacing have been hand-stitched together, forming a 'skeleton' to sit underneath the wool of the tuxedo jacket. Strategically strengthened at vital points (four layers of fabric under the armhole, for example, rather than the three elsewhere), this underlayer is the most important part of the jacket, literally sculpting the fabric around the body. Ritchie Charlton originally trained as a coat-maker - although in tailoring-speak a 'coat' means any garment that has sleeves - and generally he now focusing purely on cutting the coat rather than sewing a piece from start to finish, especially given the demand from clients. This is therefore an even rarer treat than we first realised, as we catch Charlton hard at work creating an entire custom-tailored Hayward piece.

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