by Penny Martin .

London Fashion Week, Looking Up

There is one thing you can say for London Fashion Week, it has some choice venues. Take Sunday night's excursion into the dark and opulent world of the Freemason's Hall for Giles' immaculate show of 60s couture shapes revised with an almost Aesthetic Movement hand. So rarely is the building open to the female half of the public, that there was no official ladies' toilet (so where do the Eastern Star go?). Earlier today (well, now yesterday), designers at Aquascutum, Graeme Fidler and Michael Hertz, showed their second collection for the British institution at the spectacular, early seventeenth century Banqueting House, built by the genius Neo-Palladian architect, Inigo Jones. Above our heads was this marvellous contrast of the minimalist, helium-filled balloons required to light a space in which you are allowed to attach no fixings against Ruben's landmark, propagandist ceiling cycle. A brilliant paradigm for the collection itself: a beautiful re-working of all the staple elements of the Aquascutum lexicon (checked linings, trench-coats, light cottons), all envigorated with modern touches (puckered or exposed seams, panelled belts remininscent of underwear, daring cutting). Watch two brands using their London connections to think internationally.