As Milan Fashion Week draws to a close, Lou Stoppard shares her reports on the final few days of noteworthy Italian design on offer. Her latest reports on the Autumn/Winter 2013 collections are now in. The list includes among others Dolce e Gabbana, Marni, Jil Sander and Versace.
Stoppard describes the opulent garments at Dolce e Gabbana as ‘so ornate they could have been lifted straight off the eye-popping ceiling at Venice’s St Mark's Basilica’. Emporio Armani stuck to the house's DNA of simple elegance, whereas Marni ‘proved that there is a beauty in toughness and a lightness in the dark’.
Other highlights include a display of ‘flirty femininity’ at Emilio Pucci, Jil Sander’s sophomore collection and a well-accomplished showing at Trussardi. For Bottega Veneta the ‘narrative and fantasy of last season had been replaced by lines, pleats and folds to create shapes that were challenging and conceptual’, explains Stoppard.
In Versace’s ‘Vunk’ collection, ‘bin-liners were skin-tight shiny vinyl dresses, biker jackets came with fur detailing created by American artists The Haas Brothers’. While Stoppard noted that Moschino made an homage to Scotland and British youth culture incorporating ‘St Trinian's minis, fitted blazers, ankle socks and fetishistic riding caps’.