by Andrew Gow .

Margiela Press Day

‘This collection is all about hoops, tubes and loops,’ we were told at Maison Martin Margiela yesterday afternoon. For me this collection was about shoulders, big and jagged ones. Not quite the kind you see on Joan Crawford in Mildred Pierce, but pointier, almost witch-ey. Well, to be honest, that doesn’t really come close either. That’s why Margiela’s silhouette has been really strong this season and last, because it feels very graphic and very new. It definitely says power but it doesn’t quite fall into the same category as its ballbreaking 1980s antecedents, nor does it belong in the 1940s. Rather than simply accentuating shoulder extremity, a feature of both of these eras, the whole shoulder span is redrawn as a kind of gravitational shelf, almost akin to the look of being restrained in a medieval spreader bar. This rigid 0.5m long line runs horizontally along the collar bone, creating a lot of opportunities for draping: where the hoops, loops and tubes come in. Unusual fabric combinations like swarovski-crystal encrusted nude tulle tubes rest on the upper body bolero-style (think fabulous draught excluder) as well as some interesting fluoro wool skirts and the use of other natural fibres. This collection is a real eye opener and one that importantly reassigns the female form with a new centre of gravity. Broad shouldered girls needn’t worry any longer – the broader you are, the more you can dangle.

6 comments

  1. chiccasax
    11:36 5 Apr 2007
    margiela's always doing grait. his fashion sense is forward and inspires most of the other designers out there. that's why i love fashion. because margiela does it.
  2. lightwithin
    22:02 7 Apr 2007
    A highly overated designer.I am not saying his work isn't good/excellent.However,so much hype which isn't needed sorrounds the Company.This hype he doesn't help to dispel.Another colllection that will be hyped out of all proportion,
    .a collection that if an undergraduate from a minor university had done for their fiina collection would have had no press at all
  3. queenoftarts
    14:45 8 Apr 2007
    I disagree, it seems a simple exploration of construction the likes of which many designers can't manage to do because they're too busy eating their own hype. It's nice to see something fresh from a house that could sit back and rest on its wilting laurels. The video of it is up on Fr. Vogue.
  4. la
    22:34 8 Apr 2007
    personally ,I am such a huge MM fan I really think he deserves all the praise(its not hype) that he gets.A brilliant vision of the world.
  5. GalileosUniverse
    08:00 9 Apr 2007
    Margiela’s creativity is all about passion and believe...he is above it all...Why has he gained so much respect and admiration ?.. because ‘vanity’ somehow cannot find space in his vocabulary...and he believes absolutely in what he does that is clearly reflected on how he presents his work......The silhouette he created last season is just ever so abstract..it has more to do with a levitating feeling of beauty and ever so sublime as sublime can be....it is totally freed from being cumbersome...it is his...it is like a line being drawn in the air....like invisible poetry...
  6. GalileosUniverse
    08:00 9 Apr 2007
    Margiela’s creativity is all about passion and believe...he is above it all...Why has he gained so much respect and admiration ?.. because ‘vanity’ somehow cannot find space in his vocabulary...and he believes absolutely in what he does that is clearly reflected on how he presents his work......The silhouette he created last season is just ever so abstract..it has more to do with a levitating feeling of beauty and ever so sublime as sublime can be....it is totally freed from being cumbersome...it is his...it is like a line being drawn in the air....like invisible poetry...

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