Building on his 'journey inside the body' last season, Marios Schwab's showstopping A/W '08 collection refined his 'peel away' layering into an artform. Focused on a longer, even leaner silhouette, Schwab's tissue-fine sheaths were intricately cut to reveal flashes of print or flesh beneath. The two were interconnected: artist collaborator Tom Gallant's prints were inspired by William Morris patterns, cut and mounted onto pages from pornographic magazines. The effect was extreme and will make great magazine editorial, but in terms of fashion film, the sight of women practically hobbled by tight, full-length dresses was rather painful to watch. Especially given that Schwab's research centred upon Charlotte Perkins Gilman's feminist novella 'The Yellow Wallpaper'. One would think the gorgeous, round shouldered one with a giant slit up the back and drainpipe jeans just showing underneath will do better in the shops.