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Penny Martin

Marios Schwab: what lies beneath

This young designer may be feted for short, highly-worked corset dresses that harness the body, but in this S/S collection it was as if he was peeling the layers of his workmanship away literally to reveal the human form beneath. In the first section of the show, fabric was curling away from shoulder blades in great Ionic scrolls and raw zips were exposed behind. Floaty chiffon was weighted down with string bead harnesses that gave an X-ray, 'inside out' effect to shift dresses, emphasised by shoes with hollowed out cone heels. Jackets were mainly little peplums, complimenting Schwab's 'fins': the semi-circular shapes of taught fabric that stand proud of the body, which have become the hallmark of the designer's highly disciplined tailoring. There were some beautifully cut trousers and a maxi dress to close but for the most part, Schwab's focus for summer is well above the knee.

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