by Ben Knight Evans .

Martine Rose Autumn/Winter 2012/13

Ahead of the MAN show from which, with this first solo collection, she has effectively graduated, Martine Rose's presentation at Somerset House's Portico Rooms featured a stream of boys (and one camouflaged girl) each filing out with rainbow-bright hair wrapped around their faces. The collection, which featured reworkings of the bomber jacket cropped, elongated and turned inside out alongside more upright and streamlined shirting and tailoring was a strong and luxurious expression of subcultural reference done in truly modern fashion.