Two shows within 24 hours is a tough call for any designer: perhaps that is why Giambattista Valli chose to present his first Moncler Gamme Rouge collection as a series of artisan-inspired tableaux a way away from the maddening crowds of the Louvre in the 15 arondissement. The Moncler collection was closer to home when it came to Valli's designs: his puffas came in black, virgin white and rich, Goya-esque red, cut in taffeta, duchesse de soie and gazaar. Setting the collection in the Bourdelle museum and juxtaposing the clothes with statury underlined the sculptural qualities of the garments, which were memorable for the manner in which Valli interpreted his trademark dramatic shapes within the restrictions of Moncler's puffa product. If Valli's own label could be criticised for its lack of reality, the comparative success of his Moncler range was how Valli worked to make his unmistakeable touches of haute couture, his feathers, bows and furbelows, work in a luxe sportswear context. A beautiful, assured debut.