by Alexander Fury .

PARIS FASHION WEEK: The Walk Through at Vivienne Westwood

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'DO IT YOURSELF' proclaimed Vivienne Westwood's invite and show programme, and while many fashion declarations of 'make do and mend' ring hollow, Westwood's position as punk provocateur gives her more kudos than any other. In the seventies, she declared that she loved the ideas of kids ripping off her SEX and Seditionaries designs, and this season she provided us with her own crib notes on how to get her look,advocating 'necklaces out of safety pins', 'kerchiefs worn as knickers' and 'shawls, blankets, tablecloths, curtains and towels' as somewhat unconventional evening attire. This heady melange all added up to classic Westwood, with straps and flaps dangling around the body, draped cloth slit and wrapped to expose and even create new erogenous zones and plenty of grandiose oh-my-god-I'll-never-find-my-legs-again ballgowns crafted from muchos metres of striped and moired silk. There were hints of Westwood past - touch of 'Witches' in the peak-shouldered tailoring and Keith Haring-esque hieroglyphs decorating evening gowns. And lest anyone forget who did the whole 'Cave Girl' thing first in her 1982 'Savages' and 'Buffalo' moment, we had roughly-hewn leopard-print capes flung like animal carcasses over the models' shoulders. The slogan tees were perhaps a touch House of Holland for a grande like Dame Vivienne, but she's always promoted wearing your brain on your sleeve and scrawling your cultural affiliations across your chest. Essentially, it was classic, irrepressible Westwood; Tracey Emin whooping it up in the front row on Westwood's lap of honour proved it delivered just that.

2 comments

  1. lysergi884
    23:38 13 Oct 2008
    Vivian Westwood is one of the of the great Vigilantes of the fashion world in my opinion. The saying "wear your brain on your sleeve and scrawling your cultural affiliations across your chest" to me is just about as close to a perfect illustration of what Westwood is all about as on can say. The tailoring of Vivian's work is always impeccable and mind blowing. Her innovative outlooks along side with her raw perception of fashion and art is a perfect match in my book. Vivian Westood brought a new way of thinking and visualizing into the fashion world. Bondage, Sex, and Punk aesthetics included into Avant' Guard prospective. Also, her use of uncoventional materials is also very impressive because as previously stated Vivian Westwoods work can be described and understood as "Classic Westwood"
  2. dromedary
    13:37 15 Oct 2008
    i love the wig she recently designed for charity-
    http://wigparty.org/bigwigs/

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