by Alexander Fury .

Resort 2012: Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab Resort 2012

A designer ever-intelligently questioning fashion's conventions through his intricately thought and wrought clothing, Marios Schwab was the last designer you'd expect to take the idea of a Resort collection literally. Then again, maybe it was the season's alternative moniker, Cruise, that provided the inspirations for Schwab's keynote print, a selection of sea-shells, coral and aquatic do-dads that ran riot across Schwab's ever-controlled and spare shapes. It's amusing to see them mislabelled as 'floral', in the same way that prints derived from muscle-tissues and bone samples in Schwab's S/S 2008 collection flummoxed the critics.

Glancing at his back-catalogue isn't something Schwab does very often, but this collection had a touch of the greatest hits to it. Which, for resort, is just what you want. The silhouettes were generally short and suctioned-in, bar one skinny, floor-length frock that recalled Schwab's infamously sinuous (read: practically immobilising) A/W 2008 collection. The other dresses were slightly more forgiving, in muted tones of taupe, teal and a zing of mustard. The life aquatic print emerged on these as subtly fetishistic strips harnessing waist, breasts and shoulders, or re-interpretations of the metallic plates with which Schwab made his mark back as a Fashion East fledgling. Sometimes the strapping was elastic, gently puckering his jersey into tactile drapes of fabric across the body. If that all sounds a bit buttoned-up and buckled-down for resort, Schwab sliced open his clever clogs frocks and inserted sections of chiffon to flash a few slithers of aerobicised flesh.