by Alexander Fury .

Resort 2012: Prada

Prada Resort 2012

For any woman hankering after the reconfigured Lily Pulitzer florals, impressionistic post-war golfer scribbles or geometric silk bowling shirts that look as if a bored seventies housewife went stir-crazy with a Bedazzler from Prada's Spring/Summer 2012 menswear collection - fear not! Miuccia is never one to leave her loyal customers disappointed, and mined the exact same inspiration for her 2012 Prada Resort collection. In fact, a few of the garments seemed lifted straight from her men's wardrobe: the aforementioned slinky shirts and rhinestoned satin jackets, for one, came slightly oversized and free from any feminine shaping. I'm not sure if it's just me who detects a whiff of Quentin Crisp in the crisply folded foulards and jaunty berets, but certainly their dandyish air had a whiff of fey masculinity to it. Femme, rather than feminine, you might say.

Putting berets and cravats regrettably to one side, it was lady-like all the way, skirts knee-length, blouses buttoned-up, and necklines rounded demurely below the clavicles. Some of the more prim and proper elements seemed a throwback to Mrs Prada's terribly Sincere Chic of S/S 2000. Indeed, the lip-print from that collection popped up a few times, across a pinched-collar crepe de chine blouse, a slouched hat, or a few neat pochette bags with clunky bakelite-alike chain-link straps. At other times, it emerged as just one of four or five clashing in single outfits - acid flower-power capri pants, oversized and undersized lipstick smackers and a brown-and-beige seventies geometric, say, or those pouts doing the rounds on a beret alongside a windowpane-check pinafore, nailhead silk scarf or waxed denim bag strewn with Quant daisies. Sounds like a hard sell? Hardly, especially not with Prada's iconic print past doing quick business on eBay, and the rest of the collection composed of the kind of sickly-sweet pastels, off textures and covetable accessories the name Prada is synonymous with, this was business as usual.