by Penny Martin .

Roksanda Ilincic

'Out of respect to members of the Landsdowne Club' in Mayfair, invitees to Roksanda's show this morning were asked to refrain from wearing denim. Perhaps this was a deliberate clue to the old-world glamour and grace we were about to witness. Full-length gowns in liquid charmeuse and floor skimming, jewelled evening skirts in duchesse satin were teamed with insy-winsy bustiers containing even tinsier breasts. Not everything spoke of the past, however: seams bore raw edges, in the 'unfinished' mode Roksanda has made her own and the palette was quite audacious in parts- mushrooms and dusky pinks were off-set by acid yellow or orange. This youthfulness was picked up in the colours of the lipstick and light dishevelment of the hair, much aided by a lightening of accessories this season.

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