Roksanda Ilincic for Whistles S/S 2010
Roksanda Ilincic is on a roll. Just days after the announcement that she will received support (and an enviable Bloomsbury showcase) for her talents from London's On|Off scheme, today Ilincic presented her latest collection for Whistles, the high-street store that has been overhauled - and then some - by former Topshop brand director Jane Shepherdson.
As ever, Ilincic showed in a suitably refined environment - in this instance, the rococo ballroom of Mayfair's Saville Club (complete with frolicking Fragonard-alike putti and ormolu-a-go-go). And the garments shown were typically Ilincic. Toying with spring's taste for pastels and chunky hardware, the clutch of cocktail dresses (all hovering well above the knee) were spliced incongruously with hefty industrial zips, metal-bound rectangular eyelets and enamelled, dome-shaped steel discs weighing down fluid silk crepe de chine in shades of eau de nil, nude and lavender. Despite this sweetness, the collection wasn't saccharine by any means - firm cotton ottoman was chopped into structured little dresses with exposed darts like fins, while the drapes came in sulphur yellow, poison-green and a wicked petrol blue verging on teal.
As with her A/W 2009 range for Whistles, Ilincic's second collection bucks the trend for watered-down chain-store copycat ranges - indeed, these prices aren't Primark, with the cheapest of Ilincic's ten frocks trading at the £250 mark. But price doesn't seem to be the point - you're just as likely to see one of these at Ilincic's London Fashion Week show as one of her four-figure own-label frocks, and the collection undoubtedly appeals to the same customer base (who will always have room for a little more in her wardrobe). The success of her first collection was indicated by an expanded range on Whistles' part (from seven to ten garments) and a more confident hand from Ilincic in stamping the range with its own distinct and unique identity. Ilincic evidently understands her customer - and she'll be getting plenty more of them when this selection of artful, dart-filled dresses hits Whistles stores come April.


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