by Alexander Fury .

Something for the girls

Trunks de Triomphe!

For those who think Pitti is all about the subtle charms of peaked and notched lapels and ever-raging debate of single-versus-double breasted (not to mention button numbers), the 'Pitti W' womenswear showcase offers an alternative. In it's sixth season and third year of giving designers old and new a valuable stage to present their pre-collection offerings (this season Haider Ackermann, and back in January Ungaro's new man Giles Deacon), there were a few gems amongst the selection on display in the W space adjacent to the main Pitti showground. Given the pre-eminence of vintage over the past decade or so, it was interesting that W devoted a whole room and six coveted booths to displaying a variety of vintage wares. The eighties-redux selection from A.N.G.E.L.O. - which bills itself as a 3-storey 'Vintage Palace' in the centre of Lugo, run by Caroli and Mario Gulmanelli - was pricey but impressive. My favourite pieces were a Mugler-esque goat-hair coat in pine-green and black - it resembled something Anita Pallenberg may have worn in Barbarella - and a maletot top with a satin-bowed single sleeve that could have been plucked straight from a Chloe catwalk, likewise the hefty crocodile doctor's bags (vintage Fendi - unfortunately with a pricetag to match). Even these riches paled in comparison, however, with the veritable Arc de Triomphe of Vuitton trunks at Collezionando, a leading Rome vintage specialist with a line, it seems, in luxury luggage: I spotted Goyard, Hermès and of course that unmistakable intertwined LV all over the place. Pitching up a luxury trunk showroom next to a covetable vintage shop? Smart thinking.

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