by Penny Martin .

The last Hurrah - Nina Ricci

After a total of 28 shows and appointments, it was good to end my week by entering a completely separate universe, which is the best description I have for an Olivier Theyskens show. Presumably answering the critics of the less salable aspects of his work at the late, lamented Rochas, he sent out his trouser and skirt suits first, interspersed with some of the lightest, wispy sheath dresses that would light up the complexion of any starlet (perhaps Reese Witherspoon?). This gossamer fabric was also carried into some interesting, slim trousers that were caught in folds down the leg. The wool that followed was heavier and a bit hard to understand but I read this morning that its swirling, diagonal rib was based on the classic Nina Ricci 'L'air de Temps' bottle.

The hair was particularly great: can you see the little streamers of ostrich feather(?) that were glued to the scalp to emulate the movement of some of the knit fabrics? Or perhaps you're just captivated by the jaunty little beret worn by Condé Nast owner Jonathan Newhouse on the front row, bottom left.

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