Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue. Or rather, everything blue. That was evidently the message Aquascutum decided simply screamed 2009. The old is the label, the new is the design team, and the borrowed is, ironically, the blue - borrowed from Rothko's abstractions. However, the ubiquity of this particularly colour on the runway suggested more Yves Klein's use of his own eponymous hue, a searing shade that did pop up (and pop out my contact) for a single-shouldered slinky sheath. The show began with a clutch of white outfits, then a white coat siffused from the hem up with blue, like paint applied to a canvas. From then on it was every shade from cerulean through cobalt to indigo - a somewhat oppressive shade for summer, which unfortunately made up the vast majority of the outfits. Other painterly effects could be seen in a toying with perspective, and in abstract ruffles applied like brush-strokes in planes along silk trench-coats or dresses. More pedestrian were narrow accordian-pleats and periwinkle floral embroidery, all too reminiscent of provincial needlepoint classes. In these times of hyper-speed change of theme and focus within single collections, never mind season to season, it was kind of refreshing to see one idea followed through so thoroughly. But just as Picasso's blue period reflected a time of profound depression, so this show hit the same baleful note of woe.