by Alexander Fury .

The Walk Through at Danielle Scutt

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Vulgarity. To many it's a dirty word, but Danielle Scutt has made it her leitmotif. This collection was Scutt's return to the schedule after last season's look-book - always a rather limp substitue for the flash and dazzle of a runway show, but luckily showcasing a fine collection of tough grey marl, checked velvet and fringed and draped chiffon scarves. Scarves again formed a huge part of this collection: indeed they were almost a key inspiration, not only knotted around necks and heads but with scarf-like billowing panels and bandana-print silk crafted into evening gowns. This was all fruit of Scutt's recent trip to Las Vegas, and indeed the collection was a somewhat idiosyncratic take on an Americana Dream, with a stand-out New Mexican colour scheme of chartreuse and bright, Arizona desert-sand orange. Red red lips and silk-wrapped matriarch manes conjoured up moneyed images of seventies Palm Beach bitches, while the hoop earrings, snakeskin shoes and cut-out swimsuits suggested lot lizards on a truckstop prowl. Denim is both a staple of US workwear and one of Scutt's areas of expertise (witness her recent sell-out Topshop range) and accordingly the selection in the collection was interesting, playful and attractive. In part, that was the problem: apart from the odd touch of kitsch in Apache Indian worry-beads applied to fringes, print images of Betty Boop and standout swimwear and catsuits (contradictory Scutt stalwarts), there was nothing all that bad-taste about this show. And when you can do bad taste as shockingly well as Scutt, more's the pity.

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