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The Walk Through at House of Holland

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Henry Holland's show quite literally started where the other left off, opening to a raucous round of applause as Agyness, semi-official house model, media muse and the last exit of last season strutted out in the first outfit. This time the clothes, however, were quite different: gone were Winter's tailored tartans, knife-pleat kilts and mohair knits. Indeed, all thoughts of a little slap and tickle in the chilly Scottish highlands were banished, replaced instead with a sun-drenched televisual feast courtesy of California, more specifically Beverly Hills 90210 (it is ostensibly summer, after all). The early '90s were the stomping-ground - we all knew it was on the cards when we clapped eyes on a towering white runway straight out of MTV's House of Style, and the clothes continued in the same scarily-familiar vein. Besdies the aforementioned sexualised L.A. soap there were shades of mid-nineties teen comedy Blossom in the layers of rolled shirts over bodies, wide shorts over cut-out cycling pants and peony and hydrangea prints. Speaking of print - a Holland staple if ever there was one - he moved away from his previous graphic experiements, with gentler pastel florals in suits for both sexes, clashing layers of monochrome polka-dots and scarf-prints in appropriately Americana red, white and blue straight from the runways of Todd Oldham, circa 1994. It was all good enough fun, but it felt like a bit of a stalling point. This aesthetic has been mined on the streets and in the clubs of East London for a couple of years, and while it looked colourful and poppy on the runway, it didnt actually say anything more. After Holland moved on his aesthetic so distinctly last season, upping both his ante and his stockist numbers with an almost grown-up but still irrepressibly fun collection, we expected another similar if not necessarily equal jump. Maybe this was our mistake and we should just let Holland do his thing and his fans snap it up. With his Levi's 501 collaboration due to hit Selfridges tomorrow (a crafty marketing ruse if ever there was one) we'll get our chance to see how these clothes do at shop-floor level far sooner than anticipated.