by Penny Martin .

Three Ages of Ossie

You couldn't help wondering whether this was the collection that Avsh Alom Gur was desperate just to be over, such was the political pressure for this show to live up to the myth of the titular British designer. Inevitably, Gur paid reverent respect to the archive, as in this draped jersey maxi dress and ruffle-fronted shirt and A-line skirt, neither of which would have looked out of place in the line Clark did for Radley. If Gur was looking to get the referencing over and done with once and for all, what was missing was of course Celia Birtwell's amazing prints. These he replaced with muted, geometric patterns and what looked like Miro-inspired abstractions. Like Halston last week, however, it will be more interesting to see what happens when the 'spectre leaves the feast' and this designer is allowed to make his own mark on the brand.

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