Live Now Live Fashion Film Shoot

11:00 - 19:00 on September 1 2014 BST

by Andrew Gow .

Versace Press Day

Versace hexagon dress
Versace shaved fox coat
Versace Mary Janes

The glamazon bitch has moved out of her penthouse suite and opted to flex her corporate muscles at the office this season. That’s the impression we got yesterday at Versace anyway, where there was a distinct change in tone for A/W. Donatella is picking up on the current mood for geometric beading and relief details, hip-contouring, as well as some of the utility-luxe quirks that have been popping up in Paris lately.
That is not to suggest that there weren't the usual shockers: this shaved-waist, vermilion-dyed fox fur coat grabbed our attention as soon as we came through the door. Donatella is good at inhabiting the aesthetic no-man's land between the gorgeous and the grotesque and this season she continues to hold territory, her more corporate direction notwithstanding. Versace is all about sex, power, or woman as destroyer after all – the brand’s insignia of Medusoid head is a flagrant testament to this. And perhaps no matter how much people try to intellectualise fashion, status will always be at the crux of it - an idea that Versace embraces at its most basic and satisfying level. Fur, controversially, is in a primeval marriage to this - going all the way back to our hunter gatherer origins. So while the particular coat in question might not go down a storm in London, it represents something that will never fully be usurped by more prim and proper conceptualisations – certainly not at the house most notorious for Italianate excess anyway.

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