Phillip Lim is at his best when he focuses on pragmatism – on designing the type of well-fitting, flattering and accessible clothing that make women’s lives easier: and that is precisely what he’s been doing expertly over the last few seasons. The charming designer has said on many occasions that that is exactly what his label is all about, and it’s what he has become known and loved for. For next Autumn/Winter, much of the collection was created in that vein, but there were some pieces that rocked the boat – such as the pegged pants with contrasting coloured flap that were pushing a 'fashion' angle that didn’t seem cohesive. What is so beautiful about Lim's designs is their inherent timelessness, chic simplicity and lack of overt fashion or trend focus, while always remaining up-to-date – Lim is able to reach an incredibly wide audience because he creates easily layered separates, dresses and perennially pitch-perfect outerwear that moulds to the individual’s sense of personal style. There was a lot to love – even if the edgy contrast trousers consistent throughout weren’t much of a hit – Lim was emphasising volume this season, with alternately stiff and draped dresses and separates that sat chicly at a distance from the body. Colours were gorgeous – Lim’s signature camel, tans and nudes alongside shots of cobalt, red and green were in line with the optimism in terms of palette that we’ve been seeing on the catwalks since the spring collections. It was another great, pared-back and elegant collection for Lim, with a lot of casual basics that will no doubt form the basis of many New Yorker’s wardrobes for Autumn.
It was another great, pared-back and elegant collection for Lim, with a lot of casual basics.