Joseph Altuzarra, once again for A/W 2011, was all about shedding last season’s skin to reveal an altogether new and unexpected vision. Bypassing entirely the white and snakeskin ensembles of last spring, that while genuinely interesting were not particularly appealing, Altuzarra sent out a flawless collection for A/W 2011 reminiscent attitude-wise of the brilliantly cinematic, bondage and ‘cat-woman’-inspired leather constructions of last winter. Describing his new collection as 'combining the nonchalance and rebellious spirit of the 90s', motorbike jackets were reworked and deconstructed, zippers and superfluous elongated straps were rife throughout and the subdued palette of principally charcoal, black and burgundy, was broken up with a classic argyle print. Platform boots were black, knee-high and intimidating with fur jutting out strangely along the tongue, heeled sandals appeared as over-the-top white fur-balls and sparkly silver heels, featuring chunky white fur ankle straps, were on the humorously bizarre side. Leathers and luxurious fur were stand-outs, as were tweedy wools fashioned into below-the-knee skirts with audacious thigh-high splits, and supple floor-length ivory evening dresses hinting at bygone eras, heavy with metallic embellishment and fringing, both closed, and stole, the show (there were literally ecstatic gasps and sighs from the audience). Textures, colours and materials were purposely jumbled, as Altuzarra played on concepts of patch-working contrasting elements to form a whole – the designer also explained that he was attempting a more 'sensual femininity' this season over 'bold sexuality'. It’s exciting that New York has another designer to watch – the weight has been lifted (just a little) off Proenza Schouler and Rodarte now.

Report by Indigo Clarke on 13 February 2011.