Belgian Ann Demeulemeester’s winter 2012 show began with a cloud of smoke as the Iggy Pop soundtrack kick-started an unusually upbeat and un-melancholic collection. While romantic reflections have always been central to Demeulemeester handwriting, this season the designer’s viewpoint took a more youthful and stronger stance and with it a sharper direction.

While pale faced, willowy models are intrinsic to Demeulemeester’s vision, this season the usual parade of androgynous nonchalants was modernized with a more energetic gaggle of youths, who maintained the newer tougher attitude.

While too many sweater dresses were set down the runway (do Demeulemeester’s customers want dresses?) the designer did offer her signature softly structured long jackets and morning coats in off white. Topcoats with asymmetric hems, cropped pants and dip dyed long t-shirts were all sympathetic to the designer’s vision but fresh and with an innovative view point.

Demeulemeester’s has a uniquely sensitive skill in creating clothes that exude character and soul. Each season she designer successfully develops her subtle and clear design sensibility to respond to the changing menswear scene.  This presentation propelled the brand forward and enticed a winder demographic to appreciate Demeuleester's exquisite style.

Report by Hywel Davies on 21 January 2012.