Prior to Calvin Klein’s dual back-to-back showings at a white-washed space in Manhattan’s garment district, the twittersphere was a-flutter with speculation that Occupy Wall Street protesters were set to cause havoc and shut down the show – contrary to the excitement though, just a handful surrounded the space and in reality had nothing to do with the actual – inspiring – Occupy movement. That said, the Calvin Klein experience was far from dull with the buzz expected outside instead taking place on the catwalk, where Creative Director Francisco Costa’s vision was a rousing departure from last season’s feminine, lingerie-inspired fare. Where spring’s collection saw sultry figure-hugging cuts in a palette-cleansing wash of nude, gold and blush, A/W 2012 was a modern, unfussy reinterpretation of fifties-inspired loose-fitting hourglass silhouettes conceived in bold black, egg-shell and bright poppy textured wool. Waists were accentuated and cinched with simple, ultra-modern silver belts, and classic court shoes hinted at the collection’s working-girl desk-to-disco-friendly vibe. Outerwear, like the chic separates, was minimal and focused on clean lines in block colour, a striking orange-red mohair collarless coat, gathered about the waist with a silver band-belt a particular standout. It was a decidedly wintry collection amidst the transeasonal looks many designers have been opting for in the wake of global climate change, and while the sculpted shapes in vivid colour for the season ahead may have appeared in stark contrast to last season’s subtle, slip-like wares, the attitude was unchanged – it remained confident, minimal and concise, all that the eminent Calvin Klein name implies.  

Report by Indigo Clarke on 17 February 2012.