Rejecting the fanfare of over-the-top colour and prints we’ve become accustomed to seeing on the runways this season, Calvin Klein for spring 2012 was an exercise in subtlety on all counts. Creative Director Francisco Costa’s vision was clean and direct, with an overarching sensitivity and femininity to the designs – there was even an Elizabethan edge in the distinctive structure of jackets with portrait-necklines and bodices throughout. The simplicity and confidence of the collection was immediately felt – models were fresh-faced and apparently sans make-up with prettily tousled bed-hair, dressed predominantly in curve-accentuating gossamer slip dresses with hints of exposed lacy lingerie (this is CK, underwear giant, after-all) in a pale wash of blush, soft gold and lilac hues punctuated with requisite black.
It was a minimal and concise vision, in stark contrast to the raucous insanity that greeted the audience upon arrival. A rowdy throng of paparazzi had gathered outside of the sparse, white-washed mid-town venue, in expectation of celebrity attendees – and as it turns out there were quite a few high-profile faces to take note of. Uma Thurman, Naomi Watts, Lesley Green and adorable Chloë Moretz – kick-ass star of the brilliant movie, Kick Ass – were all sitting front-row. While the front row may have been inundated with A-list stars, the clothing was exactly the opposite of all that celeb endorsement implies – it was restrained, tasteful and more appropriate for the cocktail lounge than the red-carpet.