Kiki Georgiou reports on the Chanel show
Lagerfeld is a designer who might think big but whose feet are firmly on the ground. Spectacle aside, this was one of the most pared back Chanel collections Lagerfeld has shown for a while, the silhouettes more linear, the ideas narrowed down. Wear these, he was saying, and you’ll be the epitome of chic wherever you are in the world.
This is Karl’s world. Planet Chanel. Chanearth. Whichever way you go about it, the message at this morning’s Chanel show at the Grand Palais was crystal clear: Karl’s The Man. The invite gave a clue: a gold planet Earth but what could Karl do with that? Why, erect a giant rotating globe in the middle of the Grand Palais, of course, with twinkling double CC logos for each one of the 300 Chanel stores on it. This is a designer who might think big but whose feet are firmly on the ground. Spectacle aside, this was one of the most pared back Chanel collections Lagerfeld has shown for a while, the silhouettes more linear, the ideas narrowed down. Wear these, he was saying, and you’ll be the epitome of chic wherever you are in the world. The soundtrack was Daft Punk’s 'Around The World', after all!
In the season of the coat, Lagerfeld’s came in crafty, shimmering tweeds in greys and petrol blues, with relaxed rounded sleeves and hemline and cut-away at the front to reveal the patent leather multi-chained knee-highs that acted as the base of every look. This dissection worked with a flippy skirt cut-away at the sides to reveal the leg, offering both movement and a glimpse of skin. The designer’s main proposition was simple: those knee-highs, a short and pleated skirt with a curvy tweed top or jacket on top and a frilly white shirt poking through. Easy. One long jacket had its hemline folded over so it revealed a contrasting side that went on to form its pockets. Another all-black look was so shiny from afar it looked like patent leather but in fact was tweed. A rose pink look was a rare splash of colour and it added to the feel of fun and youthfulness and energy that run through the entire show – the jacket had a leather ribbon holding its collar together. The knitwear was also fantastic – a navy sweater had a ribbed waist that added definition, another long dress, a sparkly necklace around its collar, had what it appeared to be little flags scattered around and a grey sweatshirt-like sweater had a pattern that continued onto the model’s fingerless gloves and yes, there were quite a few of those! Teamed with a woven skirt, an undone zip running through the middle it was simple and achingly cool - so cool we’ll forgive Karl for the embellished jeans – as was a series of black dresses with just pleats and folds and white frills peeking under the hemlines for decoration. And did I mention the small globe clutches? You’ll want them.
This is Karl’s world and Boy Capel are we all happy to be living on it!