Sacha Walckhoff, the new creative director at Christian Lacroix has a difficult assignment. Since the company filed for bankruptcy in May 2009, Walckhoff has been set the intricate task of re-building the reputation, business and desirability of Lacroix. The Swiss-French designer began working with Lacroix in 1992, leaving only briefly to consult for Kenzo, and returning in 2003 designing knitwear, the diffusion line Bazar, jeans, and finally moving into menswear.
For Spring / Summer 12 the collection was shown in Lacroix’s deconstructed boutique with a ‘Work in Progress’ sign above the door. This debut catwalk presentation by Walckhoff’s showed his vision is different from that of his founder’s and is definitely in progress
Walckhoff is clearly developing a new and accessible entry point into Lacroix. While the DNA of the Lacroix label was rooted in clashing colours and print, the new Lacroix menswear was subtle, nodding to the British Mod. Utilising fresh-faced models in shrunken suits and biker jackets embellished with embroideries and Swarovski crystals, the clothes were wearable but devoid of a distinct vision.
For a brand to re-establish its kudos in the current climate, it has to define a new aesthetic and a fresh approach. The show for Christian Lacorix suggested small steps forwards in realising the goal.