Central Saint Martins, graduate Christopher Shannon’s collections are always a jocular debate between the creative and the commercial. For next spring Shannon continues his well-executed ploy to subvert sportswear within a modern chap’s wardrobe.
Leslie Winers’s ‘Witch’ album instigated Shannon’s thoughts that brought a sharper edge to his new collection. Synthetic shirting, paneled sweaters and short-sleeved shirts were simple and angular. Checked shirt fabrics and college sweaters signaled to Americana aesthetic, while tassels dangling off shirt tales referenced Shannon’s signature quirks - and the collection could have benefited from a few more of these classic menswear subversions.
Accessories for the head in the form of handmade hair comb headpieces worked brilliantly and they lightened the well executed, more serious than usual, collection. New shoes with Swear involved classic brogues re-interpreted with a raised platform and two-tone block coloured sole.
Shannon’s ability to stay on track with his menswear message is admirable. A clear sensibility in designing something men would want to wear, men he sees around is what defines the designers continued success. The charm in the clothes is their unashamedly commercial approach and Shannon can be pleased with latest triumph.