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Skulls were the main motif at Comme des Garcons as Rei Kawakubo sent out a black and white collection printed and stamped with the goulish logo. Boys' greased back hair was daubed in white paint - another platform for the skull pattern which also appeared on leggings, knee length shorts, fitted jackets and t-shirts. A section of pure white shirts worn long over simple black trousers was a relief to the continual cartoon prints. Deconstructed leather jackets, became strips and leather panels, and Kawakubo attempted to reintroduce the skirt idea again -but the skull prints masked any real invention. Whether Kawakubo was being ironic in her choice of reference point is unclear - but the constant skull print concept lacked the usual midas touch that the designer so usually communicates with ease.

Report by Hywel Davies .