This year's chosen guest womenswear designer at Pitti W in Florence was Damir Doma. Paris-based Doma showed his Resort 14 collection in the gardens of the Corsini palace, an appropriately imposing setting for a collection that had a regal and, at points, lofty appeal.
Doma's work consistently has a urban bent to it, he tends to understand that women buy easier pieces, but this season he'd dressed his girls as artworks - he was inspired by the abstract geometries of the cubist painting school - which cultivated a more poised, unapproachable vibe to his women. With all that draped tailoring, Doma's collections tend to have a slightly nineties feel, but this season that was even stronger, particularly in the mid-drift-baring body-con tops with cut-out shoulders and the handkerchief hem skirts.
Maybe it was those sky-scrapper heels, or maybe it was the predominance of skirts and dresses on the runway, but the collection had a poise and formality to it that contrasted from some of Doma's grungier work. While that suited the Pitti environment, famed for attracting polished, suited and booted fashion fans, Doma is a young designer who appeals to stylish young women on the go, so it was a shame not to see something edgier or lighter - that rigid indigo jumpsuit and those silk skirt suits appeared a little stiff and severe. The best pieces were those that suggested Doma had let loose a little. The opening dress, a strict column injected with a bold slash of amethyst jacquard was pleasantly dramatic. Similarly, the serene white section, featuring easy wrap-fastened dresses and jackets, had a relaxed, chilly appeal that seemed appropriate for Doma's cool Parisian shopper.