For the Dior Homme autumn winter collection, Kris Van Assche created a vast set complete with fireplaces and chandeliers. The luxurious setting contrasted with the stripped back collection. The minimal silhouettes of Van Assche have become influential to contemporary menswear and the designer has a global platform through both his own collection and Dior Homme to communicate his vision. It is therefore slightly disappointing that the aesthetic does not have more authority to convince this is at the forefront of design. This time a palette of black, brown and splashes of red adorned low key and restraint garments. Long wide pleated pants, floaty coats and skinny lapelled blazers gave soft rounded shapes that although cohesive were lacking in any radical or innovative direction. The collection was modern in its aesthetic and will translate easily to stores. Quiet luxury from Van Assche, whose delicate and austere collection will offer polite solutions for next season.

Report by Hywel Davies on 23 January 2011.