After Kris Van Assche’s successful outing for his own line earlier in the week, the expectation for Dior Homme was high. "The collection entitled ‘A Soldier on My Own’ saw Van Assche take utilitarian clothing as an inspiration, as military uniforms were translated into one of his most successful collections to date. By fusing tailoring with sportswear, the soldier inspired collection encouraged Van Assche to find the mid point between modernity and masculinity – something that always hasn’t been lucid in his Dior collections.
For next winter the Dior man will be outfitted like a soldier in khaki, off-white or grey. Oversized coats, slim suits, parkas, blousons, ponchos and field jackets. Zips addend functionality to the clothes while pants and flight jackets in a camouflage print of doves in flight bought the collection to a close. Simultaneously luxurious and functional the new collection for Dior seems to have banished the austerity seen in previous collections and there seems a new sense of soul to the garments.
Appropriating practical codes of dressing seems to work for Van Aschee. This new sense of masculinity is softened with the designer’s supple signature style and is effective. The collection was sharp and well executed. And for the finale, as the army marched precisely down the runway, it seemed Van Assche too, had found his exact stride at Dior Homme.