Dries van Noten chose to present his collection at Musee Bourdelle which preserves the heroic sculptures of Antoine Bourdelle. Monumental marble statues evoked a sense of order, power and authority as van Noten translated this theme into his collection which took inspiration from military tailoring. Classic English garments including the double breasted blazer, evening coat and wide leg pants in a palette of navy, white, black and camel were layered in subtle variations. Slices of fur poked from coat collars while over sized tank tops ensured the collection did not rest entirely on a military uniform. Van Noten has an acute ability to create clothes that push the notions of real menswear whilst still retaining a sense of wearability. Mixing formal garments with casual pieces van Noten ensured the collection reflected a modern approach to dressing, and the designer has established this aesthetic as his own. Variations on layering, through sharp jackets, baggy pants and crisp shirts gave the silhouette a feeling of luxurious finery and utter confidence by the designer who presented a focused and clear message. David Bowie made a visit - only in spirit - through the sound track and the models slick strawberry blond hair. Chivalrous clothes with an edge, will ensure that van Noten's customers will be appropriately dressed next winter.
Van Noten has an acute ability to create clothes that push the notions of real menswear whilst still retaining a sense of wearability.