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Dries van Noten invited his guests to the concrete enclaves of the docks on the Seine, and served cans of Coke and beer against a back drop of graffiti clad walls. The surroundings were a indication of where Van Noten sourced his inspirations. An acute designer of clarity, Noten's collections always communicate a clear and distinct identity and continue to explore new and diverse reference points. This season skin-headed youths and tight-fringed models defined the look in bleached denim jeans, paint splattered shirts and double breasted jackets. An apparent combination of the casuals, punks and mods were merged with contemporary counterparts, and provided clothes that were soaked in hedonism. Clever styling combinations allowed the collection to appear progressive without negating Dries' ability to create desirable and totally wearable individual garments, something that has defined Dries' commercial success. Navy and camel, a favourite of Dries was also made youthful in knee length shorts and boxy jackets and worn with chunky boots ensured a sense of youthful rebellion and nonchalance was secured. Whether many of Dries' core customers will hurry to sport bleached denim jeans is probably irrelevant as there was ample commercial pieces to please the loyal customers. Signature modern tailoring in slouchy coats and wide jackets will populate Dries' stockists with ease. What defines Dries from his contemporaries is his modern artisan approach to craft, fabrication and sensitivity with colour. Although this collection avoided the usual nod to ethnic prints and patterns, this season encompassed a wider, more youthful audience. Directional pieces will appeal to the fashion forward and the refined staples will further endorse the desirability of Dries. Another accomplished collection by the sublime Belgian designer.

Report by Hywel Davies .