Those who felt subdued by the easy minimalism on show at Jil Sander and the elegant simplicity at Trussardi will have been thrilled by Pucci's offering for Autumn/Winter 2013. Recently Peter Dundas has been distancing himself from the house's heritage - most notably in his decision to bypass that signature swirly print in favour of more neutral tones and clean silhouettes. Whilst that's made for more intriguing work than one would typically expect for a house whose shopper approaches fashion with little if any complexity, it was pleasant to see him back in a saucy, sexy groove today.
The collection was, according the the press notes, intended to be 'unapologetically optimistic'. While every other designer has been channeling the forties - that austere decade of war and post-armistice rationing - Dundas opted to explore the swinging sixties. He'd brought back that decade's archive Otto print and had opted for a minuscule silhouette of tunics and wrap-front minis. It was a welcome return to what Pucci does best - flirty femininity. To keep things fresh and a bit rock n' roll Dundas had furnished all his girls with a choppy retro fringe and thigh-high suede boots.
There was both 'less is more' and 'more is more' at work on the Pucci runway. Less clothing, but more embellishments. So hemlines, whether on skirts or micro shorts, skimmed the thigh and dipped at the back, while lingerie-like dresses came decorated to the max with suede applique, collages and embroidery. But look past the high jinks and in-your-face opulence and this was an accomplished collection that will give monied party girls plenty of milage for seasons to come.