Lou Stoppard reports on the Fashion East show
Together the installations solidified London's penchant for more is more is more. As much as the work on show was diverse, it was also strikingly cohesive in its indication of where young designers, and sponsoring business minds, see the future of menswear. Goodbye easy bankable suiting, hello print and panache.
They say that fashion is all about fantasy, so it's very fitting that Lulu Kennedy's class of bright sparks each took us to their own personal dream world at the Fashion East Autumn/Winter 2013 installation.
Joseph Turvey channelled a classic Disney favourite in his rehashing of 101 Dalmatians. Spotted black and white suiting sat alongside dog printed sweatshirts in a collection which - aside from the visibly distressed whining dogs - was all about confidence and ease. Sans live pups, the installation would have been a real party. While Turvey looked to the animal kingdom, his contemporary Bobby Abley was channeling something altogether more otherworldly by offering up glistening sporty separates installed around a giant space ship - a real look to the future.
In the same room Kit Neale proved that inspiration can come from the humblest sources by building a trippy, psychedelic collection around iconic British venues like the local pubs, 'boozy corners' and the greasy spoon. It's telling that at the girl's showing last year Claire Barrow offered up a collection inspired by alcohol - it's clear that Kennedy knows how to show her troupe a good time around the capital.
Also on show were Fashion East veteran Maarten van der Horst and very modern milliner Nasir Mazhar. Van der Horst proved that 'new' doesn't have to be fashion's buzzword by continuing to explore the heavy metal and logo themes that he's been pondering in both his womens and mens work, while Mazhar offered up some visually bonkers, but technically impressive, headwear, which is sure to please even the most outlandish of stylist. His horn hat in particular was a hit amongst the crowd.
Together the installations solidified London's penchant for more is more is more. As much as the work on show was diverse, it was also strikingly cohesive in its indication of where young designers, and sponsoring business minds, see the future of menswear. Goodbye easy bankable suiting, hello print and panache - peacock dressers can rejoice.