Karl Lagerfeld isn’t one for nostalgia, and if the waterfall sliding down the backdrop of his runway paid a nod to the fountains of Rome, it was the only element in his Spring/Summer 2014 collection for Fendi that didn’t scream hypermodernity. It was the anarchy of the digital world and the uncontrollability of the internet that inspired the fluidity of the collection. The edges of layering in the superlight orange and blue dresses, which opened the show, created a sharpness within the overall floatiness of the garments, and established the collection’s hard-to-soft sentiment. Cleverly, the geometrical patterning of leather and fur in dresses imitated the texture of computer chips, generating another kind of hardness, which was contrasted by the fluffiness of the fur or by the addition of translucent layers. Models in thick, short black wigs walking to the heavy beat of a drum mixed with synthesizer had a brilliant ‘IT lesbian’ quality about them. But it was the composition of colours and edges, which could well have been an homage to the American artist James Turell, who plays with light and spaces, that really characterised the collection. For an effort following in the footsteps of two incredible seasons, it was no small challenge for Lagerfeld and while it may not have had the vibrancy of its predecessors, it was easily one of the most reflective and interesting collections of the season.
Models in thick, short black wigs walking to the heavy beat of a drum mixed with synthesizer had a brilliant ‘IT lesbian’ quality about them.