Hywel Davies reports on the Givenchy show
Exploring sport, sexuality, Greek neo-classicism and the US flag, Tisci employed Latinos and Mapplethorpe iconography to up the ante for Autumn/Winter 2013.
For winter Riccardo Tisci fused the Givenchy boy with the world of America and rock and roll. Exploring sport, sexuality, Greek neo-classicism and the US flag, Tisci employed Latinos and Mapplethorpe iconography to up the ante for Autumn/Winter 2013.
Models marched through a concentric circular path of 600 candles wearing a collection, that while mostly sober in grey and black, showcased Tisci’s signature mix of elegance, sport and street wear.
A restrained collection in some ways for Tisci, who negated the tribal jewelry, skirts and sweat shirts and instead opted for slick suits and lean topcoats, which nodded to couture finishes and techniques. The look was, clean, minimalist and with a tight silhouette, quite sultry.
Photographs by Robert Mapplethorpe were printed on T-shirts, sweaters and tank tops. Strong leather pieces included bulked-up jackets with lacing and signature printed t-shirts came in cashmere, velvet, taffeta, and leather.
A collar-less duffle coat was made of grained leather and compact wool and an X-ray print of the Stars & Stripes appeared on a velvet sweatshirt.
The masculine gladiators and their uniforms gave the Givenchy collection a new harder and luxurious edge for next winter. The designers’ vision at Givenchy beeches confidence as Tisci’s delivers conventional clothing that is both directional but still very affable for commerce.