It was business as usual at today’s Gucci show. The show notes may have talked of ‘novel constructions and silhouettes’, but the items on show were vintage Frida Giannini. There were the slim fitting suits, the perfect casual knits and the luxury pea coats, all jostling for space as usual alongside equestrian-inspired lux leather accessories.
Interest came from some subtle military details, inspired by the cavalry soldier’s wardrobe. Double-breasted jackets with golden buttons highlighted this starting point most clearly, while the sugary-sweet colour palette of robin’s egg blue and ochre (the signature colours on a cavalry uniform) provided a more subtle reference, and ofset the more disciplined pieces perfectly. The final few looks of the collection, the eveningwear, also provided a welcome change. Crafted from unexpected daywear fabrics like Persian lamb’s wool and pinstriped tweed and finished with a playful climbing floral pattern, they will be a hit on the red carpet among Gucci’s famous fans.
Us Londoners may scoff at the lack of genuine innovation on Giannini’s runway, but the Gucci shopper is a man who knows what he wants. A typical Milanese dresser, he likes luxury – both informal and formal. As much as he enjoys experimenting with his outfits, he hates genuine change or innovation. He needs to know that season in, season out, Gucci’s serving up the same goods. Well, as long a Frida’s there, he needn’t worry.