Flying the flag for formal menswear Hardy Amies, Gieves & Hawkes and E. Tautz joined forces for a unified presentation at the Hardy Amies store in Savile Row. Hardy Amies supporter Freddie Winsor and his parents Prince Michael of Kent and Princess Michael of Kent were in attendance to witness the new direction for the brand under the lead of new design director Oliver J Benjamin. City inspired classic suiting in navy herringbone, chalk striped flannel and dinner suits were in synch with the tradition and formality of the label, all endorsed by beautiful fabrics and elegant cuts.
Gieves and Hawkes pushed formality further with a collection updated and aimed at a younger audience. Inspired by the clash between the establishment and anti- establishment of the early eighties, Gilbert and George provided the sartorial references. Slightly shorter trousers and nipped in jackets were a nod to a more fashion-focused formality.
E. Tautz's Autumn/ Winter collection took the form of a salon presentation. Patrick Grant, the current pin up boy of Savile Row and proprietor of Norton & Sons tailors has been a driving force in updating the appeal of formal menswear. His re-launch of the historic sporting and military label, E. Tautz as a ready-to-wear collection in 2009 has refocused Savile Row and provided a great deal of press.
Talking through each outfit Grant held his audience captive with detailed descriptions of the origins and processes of each garment. E. Tautz had originally dressed figures including Winston Churchill, Edward VII and Cary Grant with a core concept on substance and durability rather than showy fabrics, and this collection followed suit, fusing British sportswear with military influences. Harris tweed jackets, lambs wool check suits, gingham shirts, school boys scarves and knitted mittens were all brilliantly executed and nostalgic in their approach.
E. Tautz is successfully signaling a change in how Savile Row, and traditional menswear, can be repackaged, demystified and delivered to a contemporary audience.