At first glance had JPG got his seasons mixed up? The first looks presented were more relevant to a winter collection than a precursor to summer trends. Donkey jackets and long belted coats sent the already over-heated audience reaching for their fans. Block colours of red, black and cream formed a modernist and even minimalist section of looks that, although precisely cut, were way off the seasonal radar. Harsh, brash and graphic silhouettes appeared out of sync with the current zeitgiest. Thankfully it lightened up with more summer friendly clothes as Gaultier introduced his signature stripes in navy and cream. Preppy denims with white blazers were more credible and variations of light weight jackets and short trouser combinations were inoffensive but devoid of any excitement. Denim bustier tops made an appearance under white double breasted suits but lacked Gaultier's wit which he has been previously so successful with, and even famed for. For evening sharp suiting was refined, but tainted by sequinned bustier tops worn underneath. Navy tailoring was more convincing but the introduction of skirts raised a few eye brows. Gaultier has done all this before - but is he saying anything new this time? While an ankle length skirt with front zip fastening and knee length pleated version were implausible, short trousers that mutated into a sarong were acceptable and a new idea. Overall a confused collective of ideas that lacked any new direction. Perhaps Gaultier needs a breath of fresh air to sweep through his design studios and redefine why the label was originally so influential and successful.
Overall, this collection was a confused collective of ideas that lacked any new direction.