'Epic masculinity' was the quest of Jil Sander when designing her Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, her second menswear showing since returning to the house. Naturally, given Sander’s penchant for restraint, this wasn’t machismo as we know it. Rather than bulk out the shoulders and chest, she’d elongated the silhouette, cutting her dual coloured vests long to sit on the hip and raising the waist of her thick felt redingotes. Featured high collars and slimline trousers accentuated the lean proportions, while pinstripe suiting and overcoats forced the eyes to travel vertically. Other than a sprinkling of angular leather bags, accessories had been completely reduced. Ties were made redundant by fitted sleeveless tops that were worn under matching tailoring, allowing separate pieces to merge together into one clean vision.
While Sander’s considered simplicity always makes for pleasant viewing, this season the impact came from the strength of individual pieces rather than the cohesive message of the whole collection. A beautiful military shadow plaid overcoat showed off Sander’s eye for form and function, while the bold red double-breasted high-buttoned suit that opened the show – and the echoes of scarlet later on - gave the muted collection a necessary injection of bravado and bite.