It's a time of flux for the Jil Sander label. Just a few months ago Jil Sander herself left the brand. Again. Well, make that for the third time. So it's perhaps unsurprising that the house's design studio - the team that put together today's A/W 14 collection - didn't feel like being too showy. In fact they'd gone back to business by making a collection all about tailoring. While some impatient attendees may have found the show somewhat dry, there was an appealing palette-cleansing quality to those colour-blocked suits and familiar boxy jackets. The self-proclaimed 'moody' colours - teal, dark green, deep purple - added to the sense of sobriety and simplicity, while having an easy modernity. Similarly the sturdy fabrics suggested longevity and practicality. This wasn't a collection designed to make a seasonal statement, or to redefine fashion, but rather a chance to consolidate and reaffirm what the Jil Sander house stands for. This might be a tricky time for the brand, but as they say every cloud has a silver lining. On the runway that was suggested in the shimmering metallic textures on a small selection of pieces, which reflected the light in a captivating way. It was a subtle touch of optimism that hinted a bright future may still be ahead.
This wasn't a collection designed to make a seasonal statement, or to redefine fashion, but rather a chance to consolidate and reaffirm what the Jil Sander house stands for.