The sky’s the limit for Kenzo’s dynamic duo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. Having moved to the house from bastion of cool Opening Ceremony, they’ve won over the fashion crowd with a cheery mix of cult logoed jumpers and whimsical accessories. Fittingly then, for Autumn/Winter 2013 they had their head in the clouds.
The opening bright sky printed shirts and baby blue pilot coats ushered in sunshine. Next, day turned to night as suiting and outerwear appeared in darker, inky hues. To add drama, flashes of lightening were injected with pops of red and metallic bronze. Star pieces included the fluffy cloud jackets, which looked both cosy and light as air, and the new graphic micro tiger print, a reworking of Kenzo’s classic motif.
Shapes were as youthful as ever – every trouser had been cut ultra slim with a peppy ankle crop. Variation came in the duo’s celebration of the brand’s Asian heritage with some oriental detailing such as lapel-less coats and jackets. Naturally, the duo had gone heavy on the accessories. Hard shell bumbags and oversized backpacks – the result of a collaboration with Boblbee – will prove popular with adventure-seekers, while mini additions like Delfina’ Delettrez’s lightening bolt tie pins will please more fanciful shoppers.
The venue for this showing, the bustling Mercato di San Lorenzo, couldn’t have been more apt for a label that is all about straight-taking, no-nonsense commerce. With the same energy and persistence of the many tradesmen outside, keen to peddle their knock-off Birkins, the Kenzo duo used this Pitti opportunity to push product, product and more product. At the end of the show their forty-four models remained on the runway like mannequins, allowing us to get up and touch, inspect and covet the items as if in store. The message? Resist if you can.