Lou Stoppard reports on the Lee Roach show
As was expected, today's collection explored just three block colours - black, white and navy - and focused on slim, stripped-back tailoring, decorated only with strapping and minimal steel buckles. Silhouettes were ultra-tight and linear thanks to Roach's removal of all linings - another indication of his hatred of surplus.
Central Saint Martins-trained Lee Roach enjoys distinguishing himself from his piers. His show notes boldly heralded a 'code of pragmatic sobriety' which was intended as a contrast from the 'zeitgeist of excess'. Roach certainly rejects London's love of embellishment and print. As was expected, today's collection explored just three block colours - black, white and navy - and focused on slim, stripped-back tailoring, decorated only with strapping and minimal steel buckles. Silhouettes were ultra-tight and linear thanks to Roach's removal of all linings - another indication of his hatred of surplus.
While the collection was certainly on point for Roach given the space he has carved out for his brand - it built firmly on the lines and hues of last season - it felt slightly anti-climatic. It would be easy to simply attribute this to Roach's distaste for the vibrant, maximalist agenda of his neighbouring London talents. But rather than blame the crowd, we should look at the man himself. Although Roach has a clear and commendably committed vision for the future in mind and aims to extend his repertoire - this season he added knitwear - amongst all that medical minimalism and those familiar icey hues it was hard to see something strikingly progressive.
