As one of the only minimalists showing in London, Lee Roach should provide a breath of fresh air on the schedule. But flawless precision is difficult to pull off as a young designer working on a shoestring budget. To really make an impact with clothes that austere your cuts have to be absolutely flawless and your finishes totally perfect. One too many bunched shoulders and the serenity is ruined. Today's showing just lacked the finesse to create a real impact.
The show notes promised us a 'uniform', but those black and white tailored pieces and austere jackets fastened with strap detailing seemed to jar with the spirit of the age. The pile-it-on mentality and rule-less energy of the styling on neighbouring runways seems much more in step with modern men's genuine day-to-day 'uniforms'. Rather than seeming like a refreshing break the severity of this collection just seemed out of step.
Roach had given a nod to this maximalist sportswear troupe by finally bowing to peer pressure and bringing in a print - an unexpected brown camo. It was apt for choice for a collection that seemed to fade away rather than stand out and shine.