The latest collection from Louis Vuitton presented a shift in direction for the brand under designer Paul Helbers. Citing Amish style as a key reference and fused with the incongruity associated with David Lynch, the collection was sobre and harder than Vuitton's usual luxe offering. From the sinister and bleak show venue to the exaggerated lighting, Helbers was clearly focused on a dark approach. In contrast to the drama, the Louis Vuitton logo sparkled in primary red (or as the show notes defined Motel Red) from the back of the catwalk. The black drenched collection wrapped the body like shields and in reverence to Amish tradition remained austere and discrete. Silhouettes and techniques shone out from the shadows as in true Vuitton expertise fabrictions included metallic python, sun bleached corduroy and double dyed denim. The red highlight was translated into an elongated puffa jacket / tailored crombie hybrid. A schizophrenic offering from Vuitton, the collection may present some challenges for the current customer base, howevere after stripping away the styling and context there are classic and covetable Vuitton pieces in beautifully tailored jackets and functional knits. Could this be an example of the concept confusing the clothes?

Report by Hywel Davies on 21 January 2011.