Maison Martin Margiela invited its audience to the movies for its spring summer 2012 collection. Set in Le Trianon, an old music hall and movie house in Paris a short film by Simon Eléphan, defined a convincing and wearable collection.
With the main concept based on the exploration of volume and transparency, fluid and semi–transparent fabrics were worked into traditional men’s garments in contemporary Margiela style.
Raincoats in waxed cotton had striped half lining that could be seen from the outside. Jersey polyester was used for a blouson where the interior wadding was visible from the outside. Shirts constructed from vintage printed bandanas were over dyed and covetable accessories such including cumber bands and silk-fringed scarf provided undemanding entry points into the Margiela brand.
Margiela’s artisan approach informs clothes that have enough edginess for a distinct and modern aesthetic. Lacking the strict conceptualism that originally defined the brand when Martin Margiela was the driving force – the current collections are desirable but perhaps lack some of the mystery that Margiela so cleverly conjured up – but perhaps this is just fashion moving on.