Stepping out of the most revolting NY winter evening – a blizzard graduating into ice-cold torrential rain causing the street’s filthy snow piles to turn into hazardous wells of grey slush – it was more than fitting to find oneself in Marc Jacobs’ stormy Autumn/Winter 2014 set, complete with sculptural fabric clouds suspended in the rafters overhead. A little too fitting, perhaps. There’s something to be said for fashion belonging, to some degree, to the realms of fantasy – to be removed momentarily from the everyday, i.e. the most depressing, glacial winter in recent memory. That said, while it may not have been the chirpiest spectacle, Marc Jacobs’ surreal vision for the coming winter was certainly thought-provoking. As the audience perched on white leather pods, drone-like models with bleached eyebrows and severe blunt-cut bobbed wigs and wide headbands stalked through the cavernous space as though in a trance to Jessica Lange’s foreboding spoken-word rendition of early 20th Century standard, Happy Days are Here Again. Appearing as a chic alien race, lookalike models donned sixtiess-mod meets ninties-raver Sci-Fi uniforms – go-go boots and chunky sneakers, flared knit leggings and boxy tunic combos, and mink bomber jackets atop sparse, elongated dresses with side split among the key pieces. Where last season’s dark post-apocalyptic Victoriana vision for Spring appeared to be winter wear, this collection was the complete reverse – ensembles seemingly created for summer. Soft and strangely futuristic, the collection featured minimal, clean silhouettes with low scoop and v-necklines conceived in lightweight fabrics and a pale, neutral palette of soft pink, peach, taupe and white. Breaking the muted continuum, shimmering all-over sequin and bead embellished cocktail dresses added razzle-dazzle, while the unmistakable standouts of the collection were the closing light-as-air floor-length dresses featuring wave-like tiers of pastel organza.
Drone-like models with bleached eyebrows and severe blunt-cut bobbed wigs and wide headbands stalked through the cavernous space as though in a trance to Jessica Lange’s foreboding spoken-word rendition of early 20th Century standard, 'Happy Days are Here Again'.
Marc Jacobs: Live panel discussion