Show Report
The vibe was both earthy and disco-decadent. And this mood continued throughout the collection.
Every now and then, I feel really lucky to do what I do. Running to show after show and writing reviews until the early morning each day for the duration of fashion week can dull the senses to such a degree that I forget why it is I work in fashion - and why I ever wanted to critique it. Marc Jacobs' mainline collection - which started bang on 8pm - instantly reminded me of the virtues of fashion. It was, in a word, beautiful. In fact, I'll give it a few more words; inspiring, free-spirited, uplifting and, well, just wonderful really. Beginning with the massive installation that formed the runway - a towering, serpentine shell of curved sheet-metal that the models weaved their way around and through (and that had more than a passing resemblance to artist Richard Serra's amazing large-scale sculptures), the vibe was both earthy and disco-decadent. And this mood continued throughout the collection; in colour - terracotta, ochre, plum, gold; and form - lithe, elongated lines and high-waists to emphasise the statuesque quality of the models, who were decked out in countless multi-hued '70s-inspired ensembles. Watching the blur of vivid block colour and impeccable form sail past me, it occurred to me that in this fleeting moment, I've seen something of perfection. And in the same way we are humbled in the presence of great art, it really is possible to fall into a fashion-inspired reverie involving, in this case, long-limbed Roxy Music-like vixens with frizzed out side parted hair-dos in gold hot-pants, impossibly tall flared trousers and towering platform heels, brilliantly chichi gold knit dresses with appliqué palm trees, countless asymmetric hemlines, puffy and playful smocks and sheer, billowing jumpsuits paired with excessively wide-brimmed sun hats in a multitude of colours - and so, so much more. It was super-real, all-out unapologetic glamour at its best. It belonged in the realms of fantasy - and yet there on the catwalk, it was a momentary reality. Needless to say, Marc Jacobs S/S 2011 was something of a highlight.
